mmegaera: (travel)
Along the Bow River Parkway, Banff National Park.
Along the Bow River Parkway, Banff National Park.

Twelve days ago, June 15, 2015.

From Radium Hot Springs to Banff, aka, why is there a city in the middle of a national park?

Canadians have a much different idea as to what’s appropriate in a national park than we USAians do. I knew that, in theory, before I made this trip. But there’s something just really odd about having what I think of as a gateway community (and a bloody big one) inside the national park as opposed to just outside its border. Let alone what looks like their equivalent of an Interstate highway right through the park.

But I get ahead of myself. Twelve days ago today I drove back up into Kootenay National Park, and what should I see right after I emerged from the red rock canyon? A bear! My first one of the trip, but not my last. I don’t have a good picture of him, alas — I’d already passed him before I could get stopped, and there was another vehicle behind me in the pullout so I couldn’t back up, so the two photos of him I do have were taken through the back window of my car (no way was I getting out of my car to get a better look — I pride myself on not being a touron, as the Yellowstone folks sometimes refer to people who seem to be aiming to win the Darwin award).

A bear!
A bear!

I drove on, chortling about seeing a bear, up the route I’d taken yesterday and beyond, past Marble Canyon and up to the Continental Divide, which is also the border between Kootenay and Banff National Parks. I’m afraid my photo of the sign proclaiming this got sun-glared, but here it is, anyway.

The Continental Divide and the boundary between both Kootenay and Banff National Parks and the provinces of British Columbia and Alberta.
The Continental Divide and the boundary between both Kootenay and Banff National Parks and the provinces of British Columbia and Alberta.
They mean that about the wild roses, too, especially in Jasper NP.  Geographically, I visited Alberta about the way I visit Wyoming when I go to Yellowstone.
They mean that about the wild roses, too, especially in Jasper NP. Geographically, I visited Alberta about the way I visit Wyoming when I go to Yellowstone.

It’s not far from the Divide to the junction with the Trans-Canada Highway (the aformentioned Interstate-alike), a four-lane behemoth of a road that bisects Banff NP. Fortunately, there’s an alternative, the Bow Valley Parkway, which is a winding two-lane that runs from just north of Banff the town to Lake Louise. I joined it about halfway between, just below the imposing and appropriately-named Castle Mountain (although apparently after WWII, it was renamed Eisenhower Mountain, of all things — that didn’t last long).

Castle Mountain.
Castle Mountain, at the junction with the Trans-Canada Highway, hence the light poles.

The Bow Valley Parkway is much more traditionally national parkish. Lots of pullouts with informative signs, trailheads, and so forth, and very peaceful, with one exception. I had thought to stop at Johnston Canyon, which was the second of those narrow, deep slot canyons, this one with a trail that goes along the bottom, but the parking area for the trailhead was so full that I couldn’t find a place to park. So I told myself I’d come back the next day, and kept going south to Banff the town.

Along the Bow River Parkway.
Along the Bow River Parkway.
One of the ubiquitous Columbian Ground Squirrels, which actually remind me more of prairie dogs than ground squirrels.
One of the ubiquitous Columbian Ground Squirrels, which actually remind me more of prairie dogs than ground squirrels.

Banff the town is beautifully situated, surrounded by some really oddly-shaped mountains (I have to say that I’ve never really seen mountains shaped like the Canadian Rockies anywhere else), and where the Canadian national parks began with a hot spring (more on that tomorrow). It’s also incredibly busy and touristy, but I really didn’t mind. Especially since my hostel, right on the Bow River (pronounced like bow and arrow, not bow or curtsey), was within walking distance of practically everything. The hostel was in a huge old building that used to be a hospital, but it was clean and pleasant and if it felt a bit institutional, that was okay, too.

The bridge across the Bow River in the town of Banff.
The bridge across the Bow River in the town of Banff.

After lunch in a restaurant (in a mall! in a national park!), I went exploring. Found the Bow River Falls, which were gorgeous.

Downstream from the Bow River Falls.  This looks so much like Yosemite Valley to me.
Downstream from the Bow River Falls. This looks so much like Yosemite Valley to me.
Bow River Falls.
Bow River Falls.

Visited the Cascade Gardens behind the big stone Banff park admin building, which were another anomaly, albeit an enjoyable one, from my point of view.

A view from the Cascade Gardens.
A view from the Cascade Gardens.
Lily of the valley blooming in Cascade Gardens.  Everything was blooming about a month later than at home, and they were just putting out bedding plants for the summer.
Lily of the valley blooming in Cascade Gardens. Everything was blooming about a month later than at home, and they were just putting out bedding plants for the summer.
Cascade Gardens and the Banff admin building.
Cascade Gardens and the Banff admin building.

Wandered through the public rooms of the Banff Fairmont Chateau Hotel, which was much less iconic looking on the inside than it was on the outside, and drove up to the foot of the gondola, decided that it was not for me (I don’t do manmade heights, and this one made the one at the Tetons that scared me half to death last summer look like a quick lift to the top of the bunny slope), and ended up parked in the shade in their parking lot writing in my journal and enjoying the view.

The Banff Fairmont Chateau Hotel.
The Banff Fairmont Chateau Hotel.
A view from the patio of the Banff Fairmont Chateau Hotel.
A view from the patio of the Banff Fairmont Chateau Hotel.

I’d meant to visit at least two of the museums this afternoon, but it was Sunday and they were closed. So I put them on my agenda for tomorrow.

I like Banff the town. It’s just not my idea of what should belong in a national park, is all.

A magpie perched on a ledge at the hostel.
A magpie perched on a ledge at the hostel.

Mirrored from M.M. Justus -- adventures in the supernatural Old West.

mmegaera: (Much Ado in Montana)
If that's not a glaciated saddle, well...
If that’s not a glaciated saddle, well…

Twelve days ago, June 14, 2015.

In which I run into an old friend, sort of. Or have one flow by me, at any rate.

My first order of the day was to go explore Kootenay National Park, one of the two parks of the contiguous four Canadian Rockies parks on the BC side of the Continental Divide.  So I went through the entrance gate, and paid for an annual pass (which came out to $50-something American), because it was more economical and convenient than buying eight days’ worth of daily passes, and there was no in between alternative. Not that I’m complaining. An American annual national parks pass costs $80, and I buy one of those every year because it always ends up paying for itself.

The road into the park leads up through a red rock canyon that had apparently been blasted out by navvies with dynamite back in the day, past the hot springs (which have been developed into swimming pools, etc., and aren’t in their natural state like the ones in Yellowstone), and up over a pass into the valley of the Kootenay River.

Looking north from Kootenay Pass.
Looking north from Kootenay Pass.
Looking south from the same vantage point.
Looking south from the same vantage point.
Kootenay River, on its way to Libby, Montana.  The turquoise is due to the glacial flour in the water.  All the water here is varying shades of opaque because of it.
Kootenay River, on its way to Libby, Montana. The turquoise is due to the glacial flour in the water. All the water here is varying shades of opaque because of it.
Looking north along the highway.
Looking north along the highway.

I used to live beside that Kootenay River when I lived in Montana. It flowed right through Libby, the town I lived in briefly. It was rather astonishing to look at a map that evening and discover that the Kootenay (named after a local Indian tribe) starts in Canada, drops briefly down into the U.S. by Libby, then heads back up to Canada where it eventually flows into the Columbia, which flows back into the U.S. and out into the Pacific Ocean. Rivers are very convoluted in this part of the world. Or maybe it’s just the national boundaries that make it seem that way.

I drove about an hour up into the park, through the valley lined with sheer mountains on either side. I saw a couple of deer, but that was it so far as wildlife was concerned unless you count the many, many chipmunks hanging around wherever I happened to stop the car. I kind of wonder if that’s the case because Kootenay is called the “highway” park, since the reason it exists in the first place is due to the highway, which the federal government built in return for the donation of the land to create the park. It’s a through road that connects southern BC with the Trans-Canada Highway — the speed limit is 90 kph (55 mph), and most drivers seem to treat it as a two-lane freeway rather than the kind of national park road I’m used to. I was passed frequently on the straightaways by people going considerably over 90 kph.

My destination that day was Marble Canyon, which was the first of several long, narrow slot canyons I saw on this trip. It’s not really marble, but dolomite (which I’d always thought was a kind of limestone, but the signs seemed to distinguish between it and limestone, so maybe not), and it’s pretty impressive, a stream at least a hundred feet below thundering and echoing off the vertical, sheer walls close enough together that if I was nuts I could probably leap to the other side.

Tokumm Creek, just leaving Marble Canyon.
Tokumm Creek, just leaving Marble Canyon.
Looking down into Marble Canyon from one of several bridges.
Looking down into Marble Canyon from one of several bridges.
The waterfall at the head of Marble Canyon.
The waterfall at the head of Marble Canyon.

Wildflowers everywhere, too, which surprised me as I thought I might be a bit too early in the season this far north. I suspect their abundance had something to do with fires that swept through this part of the park a few years ago, opening the forest and allowing plenty of sunlight.

A large clump of bunchberry, a member of the dogwood genus.
A large clump of bunchberry, a member of the dogwood genus.
Twinflowers.  I don't think I'd ever seen these before.
Twinflowers. I don’t think I’d ever seen these before.
White mountain avens, another flower new to me.
White mountain avens, another flower new to me.
The first of literally acres of Indian paintbrush that I saw on this trip.
The first of literally acres of Indian paintbrush that I saw on this trip.

On my way back, I stopped at the only commercial development inside the park, thinking I’d eat lunch at the little restaurant, but it was not quite ready for customers yet, so I picnicked, then drove back on down to Radium Hot Springs, where I stopped to photograph the red rock canyon, then crossed town to reach the north-flowing Columbia River and ponder just how long it would take for the water passing in front of me to end up in the ocean.

Red rock canyon (not nearly as red in the photo as in real life) just inside Kootenay National Park.
Red rock canyon (not nearly as red in the photo as in real life) just inside Kootenay National Park.
The north-flowing Columbia River, already pretty good-sized.
The north-flowing Columbia River, already pretty good-sized.

All in all, a very good day.

Mirrored from M.M. Justus -- adventures in the supernatural Old West.

mmegaera: (Much Ado in Montana)

Self-evident.

 Twelve days ago, Saturday, June 13, 2015.

Into another country. Which was just different enough to remind me that I was in a different country, which was cool.

It was a long day, although less than 300 miles or 482 km. The kilometer thing was one of those things that was just enough different to keep me on my toes. It took me a little while to figure out that I could use Kestrel’s speedometer (which has km in red on the inside of the little wheel, and miles in white on the outside) to figure out mileage as well as speed, and I was inordinately pleased with myself when I did.

Along the road to the Canadian border.
Along the road to the Canadian border.

From Colville to the Canadian border just north of Metaline Falls is a stretch of road that felt more and more remote the farther I went. I climbed up out of one river valley and down into another, past several tiny hamlets, and at last I reached a very tidy-looking customs station in the middle of the woods, with a very pleasant white male customs agent. Among other things, he asked me what I did for a living. I told him I was a writer, he asked of what, I told him, he asked more questions, and the upshot was I ended up giving him one of my business cards so he could look me up online and see for himself. He also said, well, maybe you’ll set a book at Banff, and I said, hey, I went to Yellowstone and ended up with a trilogy, so it’s not that farfetched. He laughed and told me to be sure and include the handsome customs agent. I told him I would.

I suspect those customs stations out in the middle of nowhere get pretty boring. That one isn’t even open 24 hours a day.

Canadian customs station.  My father used to pronounce that kind of stop sign as, "stop, already!"
Canadian customs station. My father used to pronounce that kind of stop sign as, “stop, already!”

Once I crossed the border and turned east on Hwy. 3, I started a serious climb up to Kootenay Pass, almost 6000 feet. Almost to the treeline.

My first view of the Rockies, from Kootenay Pass.
My first view of the Rockies, from Kootenay Pass.

Then down to another river valley and the farming town of Creston, where I found an ATM for cash and I bought my first gas in litres, which was interesting. I’d made a calculation before I left home, taking into account that a litre is a bit more than a quart and the favorable exchange rate, and had come up with multiplying the litre price by 3.2 so that I’d have a rough idea what I was actually paying. Gas is a bit more expensive in Canada than in the U.S., but it wasn’t as bad as I’d been thinking it would be.

From Creston, and lunch, where I also discovered that I couldn’t get unsweet iced tea (something that proved fairly consistent wherever I went — I drank a lot of hot tea instead and added my own lemon), I turned north and east towards the city of Cranbrook.

I’d read about a living history museum near Cranbrook called Fort Steele, which made an excellent afternoon stop. It’s sort of a cross between Greenfield Village at the Henry Ford Museum in Detroit, Michigan, and Fort Nisqually just down the road from where I live. It’s a whole village of 19th century buildings that have been brought here from all over the region, with living history demonstrations and the whole nine yards. Not a whole lot was going on at the time I was there (part of the issue was that I’d crossed into the Mountain Time Zone without realizing it, and it was half an hour from closing when I showed up), but it was still well worthwhile, learning about the Hudsons Bay Company and the Mounties and so forth.

The Mounties headquarters at Fort Steele.
The Mounties headquarters at Fort Steele.
The sign says, "Painless Dentistry."  Somehow, I don't think so.
The sign says, “Painless Dentistry.” Somehow, I don’t think so.
Main Street, Fort Steele.
Main Street, Fort Steele.

But I had another couple hours’ drive to get to Radium Hot Springs, a town on the outskirts of Kootenay National Park where I planned to spend the next couple of nights, and I’d just realized the time change (there’d been no sign, anywhere, to tell me), so it’s a good thing it was a straight shot north, up the valley past Columbia Lake, which is the headwaters of the Columbia River (which flows north at this point, which is just wrong). A wall of mountains on my left, another on my right, in between a string of lakes and me on the road. Just beautiful.

The headwaters of the Columbia River.
The headwaters of the Columbia River.

The hostel was on a hill above town just outside the park entrance, and had a lovely garden and a very friendly dog to boot. A good place to light while I explored my first Canadian national park (at least since I was a kid).

The view from the hostel deck, Radium Hot Springs, BC.
The view from the hostel deck, Radium Hot Springs, BC.

Mirrored from M.M. Justus -- adventures in the supernatural Old West.

mmegaera: (Much Ado in Montana)
Wild rose at the logging historical exhibit.
Wild rose at the logging historical exhibit west of Sherman Pass.

Twelve days ago, Friday, June 12, 2015

I think it was about three months ago when it was pointed out to me that I’m no farther from the Canadian Rockies than I am from

Yellowstone (about a hundred miles closer, in fact) and I thought, you know, I’ve been to Yellowstone how many times in the 22 years since I moved to western Washington — why have the only trips I’ve made to Canada in that time been a couple of weekends via ferry to Victoria?

So I renewed my passport and started making plans for the trip as soon as the exhibit was finished. That this happened to coincide with the dates the U.S. Open golf tournament was held less than
fifteen miles from my house was just a bonus (I am told the traffic that week was pretty overwhelming).

Anyway. As is normal on any first day of a vacation like this, I spent most of it on the road. Northeast on SR 18, where I began my day with a hawk stooping at prey right beside the road as I drove by, then east on I-90, of course, to the town of Cle Elum, just over Snoqualmie Pass, where I picked up a back road for a few miles to U.S. 97, which stretches north to the Canadian border, and,
incidentally, allowed me to bypass driving up I-5 through the entire
Puget Sound conurbation, plus avoid one of the busiest border crossings between here and Detroit.

I did not, however, go straight up U.S. 97 to the border. I turned east at the little town of Tonasket, in the heart of the Okanogan country, to explore the northeastern part of Washington before I headed on. I’d always been curious about this area, but it was just a bit farther than I’d want to go for an overnight.

I don’t know if anyone familiar with eastern Washington who’s reading this is as surprised as I was to discover how mountainous the northeast corner of the state actually is. I mean, south of here it’s pretty much flat and seriously monotonous all the way from
Ellensburg to Spokane. But SR 20 climbs quickly up from the
Okanogan River valley and enters national forest land. I passed through the “town” (if there were half a dozen buildings, I’d be shocked) of Wauconda, crossed a 4500 foot pass, dropped down to the San Poil River valley at the town of Republic (which could be the twin of Libby, Montana, where I lived briefly a long time ago), then climbed steeply to Sherman Pass, elevation 5500 feet.

The Sherman Pass viewpoint looks out over one of those curvature-of-the-earth views, over mountains that had obviously been burned in the not-too-distant past. An exhibit board said that the fire had taken place in 1988, the same year as the Yellowstone fires, and the landscape looked similar to the park.

View of burned mountains from the top of Sherman Pass.
View of burned mountains from the top of Sherman Pass.

East of Sherman Pass were a couple of historic landmarks. The first one was the site of a CCC camp in the 1930s, with some fun
sculpture:

Metal boot sculpture at the CCC historical marker.
Metal boot sculpture at the CCC historical marker.
Metal sculpture of a CCC worker at the CCC historical marker.
Metal sculpture of a CCC worker at the CCC historical marker.

The second one was apparently about logging, but with no sign, it was kind of hard to tell. On the other hand, this is where I saw the first of many, many wild roses in bloom on this trip (photo at top).

I crossed the Columbia River, actually Lake Roosevelt above the Grand Coulee Dam, at the town of Kettle Falls, the namesake of which is now buried under the reservoir.

The Columbia River, from a viewpoint just west of Kettle Falls.
The Columbia River, from a viewpoint just west of Kettle Falls.

But it had an interesting little historical museum where I took a break from the road.

The Kettle Falls Historical Society Museum.
The Kettle Falls Historical Society Museum.

And then I drove the last few miles to the county seat of Colville (pronounced CALL-ville, not COAL-ville), where I spent my first night on the road!

Mirrored from M.M. Justus -- adventures in the supernatural Old West.

mmegaera: (Default)
Eleven wonderful days, but without internet, which is why I've been incognito for a while. I will be blogging the trip day by day as soon as I have enough brain/time at the same time.

Cats woke me up at 5 am today as revenge for leaving them with the catsitter, which is why no brain today.
mmegaera: (Much Ado in Montana)

So, yesterday was the grand opening of the Lakewood Historical
Society’s
latest temporary (there’s a new one every year) exhibit, created by yours truly and mounted last week, in my day job as a freelance museum curator. It was just fine when I arrived, in spite of my annual “everything’s fallen off the walls in the middle of the night” nightmare waking me up about five-thirty in the morning, and we had a good attendance.

The introductory panel.  The photo is one I took, of the golf course featured in the exhibit.  The text reads as follows, for those who can't read the actual photo:  Playgrounds of the Lakes District:  Lakewood's Sports History The Lakes District began as a playground.  As Tacoma grew, its residents began to search for an escape from the bustle and dirt of the city.  The Lakes District, with its oak prairies and many lakes, and its spectacular view of nearby Mt. Tacoma, was ideal. First came the Tacoma Country and Golf Club, the first of its kind in the West.  A streetcar spur was built, creating easy access to it and to summer homes on many of the lakes, including American Lake, which later began hosting crew races. The bustle of Tacoma came to Lakewood with the roaring of the racecars at the Tacoma Speedway.  The Lakewood Ice Arena enabled many a figure skating champion. And last but not least, Fort Steilacoom Park was created from the grounds of the old state insane asylum, becoming the center of modern sport in Lakewood today.
The introductory panel. The photo is one I took, of the golf course featured in the exhibit.

The text reads as follows, since making the photos big enough for you to read directly from them would make them enormous:

The Lakes District began as a playground. As Tacoma grew, its residents began to search for an escape from the bustle and dirt of the city. The Lakes District, with its oak prairies and many lakes, and its spectacular view of nearby Mt. Tacoma, was ideal.
First came the Tacoma Country and Golf Club, the first of its kind in the West. A streetcar spur was built, creating easy access to it and to summer homes on many of the lakes, including American Lake, which later began hosting crew races.
The bustle of Tacoma came to Lakewood with the roaring of the racecars at the Tacoma Speedway. The Lakewood Ice Arena enabled many a figure skating champion.
And last but not least, Fort Steilacoom Park was created from the grounds of the old state insane asylum, becoming the center of
modern sport in Lakewood today.

Here’s a sampling of the rest of the exhibit, in case you live too far away to see it in person. If you’re not, however, the exhibit will be up for an indefinite time (months at the least — the date for the next exhibit opening hasn’t been set yet).

The Tacoma Country and Golf Club panel, and three photos of important figures in the club's history.
The Tacoma Country and Golf Club panel, and three photos of important figures in the club’s history.

And the panel text again:

In 1894, four transplanted Scots leased a cow pasture in South
Tacoma to build the first golf course in the U.S. west of the Mississippi. They imported clubs and balls from Scotland, the customs inspector mistakenly labeling them as agricultural implements, saving the club some cash.
In 1904, the golfers partnered with the existing Tacoma Country Club, buying property along American Lake in what is now Lakewood, expanding the club’s offerings and selling building lots, at the newly-renamed Tacoma Country and Golf Club’s permanent home.
In spite of many setbacks – among other things, two club houses were lost to fire – the club prospered, hosting six national tournaments over the years. Most recently, the golf course won a renovation of the year award.
Sporting a new vintage feel, the course is now ready for another 120 years.

The first display case, with a historical golf ball plaque and ball, and a golf ball signed by Jordan Spieth, who won the Masters this year, and who is distantly related to one of our board members.
The first display case, with a historical golf ball plaque and ball, and a golf ball signed by Jordan Spieth, who won the Masters this year, and who is distantly related to one of our board members.
The other display case, with a pair of hockey skates used at the ice arena, and several programs from the Ice Capers performances held there.
The other display case, with a pair of hockey skates used at the ice arena, and several programs from the Ice Capers performances held there.
The lower righthand photo in this grouping is of a car called the Great Big Baked Potato Special, which raced several times at the Tacoma Speedway.
The lower righthand photo in this grouping is of a car called the Great Big Baked Potato Special, which raced several times at the Tacoma Speedway.  The gentleman above it is Eddie Rickenbacker, WWI hero and race car driver, and immediately to his left is the first women’s race at the Speedway, held in 1916.  Below it is the last race ever held at the Speedway, in 1922.
The ice arena panel, and several photos.
The ice arena panel, and several photos.

Here’s the text for the ice arena panel:

In 1936, due to his wife Mary’s interest in figure skating, Norton Clapp purchased the Oakes Ballroom on the shores of Lake Steilacoom to turn it into an ice arena.
Private at first, then open to the public, the arena became the home of the Lakewood Winter Club. Despite its drawbacks, including its non-regulation size and lack of a Zamboni, pro instructors John Johnsen, George and Leah Mueller, and Kathy Casey produced many nationally-known figure skaters including two-time Olympian Jimmy Grogan, two-time U.S. Sr. Men’s Champion Scott Davis, Women’s Jr. World Champion Jill Sawyer, and U.S. Pairs Champions Judi and Jerry Fotheringill. The club also put on an annual performance called the Ice Capers. Ice hockey and curling competitions took place here as well.
But by the mid-1970s, the arena’s condition had deteriorated to where it was no longer safe to skate there, and in 1982, its roof and one wall collapsed into Lake Steilacoom. The Lakewood Ice Arena was no more. But thanks to Mary Clapp and the Lakewood Winter Club, ice sports are still alive and well in Pierce County.

The Fort Steilacoom Park panel, one of the timeline panels, and several photos.  The background of the big panel was created from a photo I took of one of the barns at the park.
The Fort Steilacoom Park panel, one of the timeline panels, and several photos. The background of the big panel was created from a photo I took of one of the barns at the park.

And the text for the park panel:

First, the land was part of Fort Steilacoom, the oldest fort on Puget Sound. Then it was part of the Washington Insane Asylum, now Western State Hospital, and used as a farm to help provide the inmates with food and useful labor, and as a space for a cemetery, which the group Grave Concerns maintains and improves to this day.
In 1970, the state of Washington leased 350 acres of the land to Pierce County for a park. The county built two rough ballfields, also used for growing hay, but made few other improvements. In 1996, the city of Lakewood was incorporated, and city government took an interest. A collaboration was formed. More playing fields were created and the existing ones improved. Walking trails were added, as well as a dog park and disc golf course. In 2006, the Lakewood Rotary Club and 2871 volunteers built a brand-new playground. And the Partners for Parks community group continues to raise funds to improve our grand park.

The one big artifact.  This is from the Lakewood Winter Club, which was headquartered at the Ice Arena.
The one big artifact. This is from the Lakewood Winter Club, which was headquartered at the Ice Arena.

I hope you enjoyed this, and that if you can come see it in person, you will!

Mirrored from M.M. Justus -- adventures in the supernatural Old West.

mmegaera: (Much Ado in Montana)

Otherwise known as, why spring is my favorite time of year, hands down.

First, my front flower bed.

Blue lithodora, pink/purple thyme, yellow sedum, round-leaved cranesbill.
Blue lithodora, pink/purple thyme, yellow sedum, cranesbill seedlings, iris foliage, a lavender creeping campanula, and the last creeping phlox blossoms.

This is at the very front end of my flower bed.   I love the tapestry this has become.

The mama round-leaved cranesbill, and Tiny Rubies dianthus.
The mama round-leaved cranesbill, and Tiny Rubies dianthus.

This is about halfway down the bed to my front door.  The ferny foliage in the upper lefthand corner is threadleaf coreopsis, and the tall spiky plants in the upper center are lilies.

The only iris that bloomed this year, alas.
The only iris that bloomed this year, alas.

And, no, I don’t have his name.  But isn’t he gorgeous?

This is the backyard.

Hosta and coral bells -- if I ever knew the variety names, I don't anymore.
Hosta and coral bells — if I ever knew the variety names, I don’t anymore.

Another cool combination.

Whoa, Nelly.  Nelly Moser clematis climbing the fence and the vine maple.
Whoa, Nelly. Nelly Moser clematis climbing the fence and the vine maple.

This was a tiny seedling about six years ago.  Those flowers are bigger than my hand.

The purple clematis (no variety name, alas).
The purple clematis (no variety name, alas).

This was the clematis I thought I’d dug up a couple of years ago.  Apparently I missed some root fragments.  I figure if it survived that, it deserves to stay.

Columbines are supposed to be blue.  I also have a yellow and a white that aren't in bloom yet.
Columbines are supposed to be blue. I also have a yellow and a white that aren’t in bloom yet.

I love columbines.

And that is May in my garden this year.  Well, except for the bleeding heart that ate New York, but something fell on it and crunched part of it, so it’s not looking so great right now, alas.  It is still blooming, however.

Mirrored from M.M. Justus -- adventures in the supernatural Old West.

mmegaera: (Default)
I kept trying to post this on the LJ cross-stitch comm, but every time I went to the comm's page to post it, LJ kept logging me out. I don't know what its problem is this time. Anyway, here's my newest mandala:



My next project is this Heaven and Earth Designs pattern, which, when finished, will be about 2x4 feet (18 stitches per inch, no white space -- why yes, I'm insane, thank you for asking!). I may finish it in ten years or so (but I'm sure I'll be completing other projects in between):

http://heavenandearthdesigns.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1987
mmegaera: (Much Ado in Montana)

This time closer to home. It is that time of year again, after all.
These are all from along the Nathan Chapman trail in Puyallup, Washington, except for the first one, which is from the rainforest trail at the Carbon River entrance to Mt. Rainier National Park.

Skunk cabbage.   Because a local spring wildflower photo essay is not complete without skunk cabbage.
Skunk cabbage. Because a local spring wildflower photo essay is not complete without skunk cabbage.
Serviceberry blossoms.
Serviceberry blossoms.
Wild strawberry.
Wild strawberry.

 

Western bleeding hearts.  They're all over the place this time of year.
Western bleeding hearts. They’re all over the place this time of year.
Siberian miner's lettuce, or candy flower, depending on your preferences.  Both common names for the same plant.
Siberian miner’s lettuce, or candy flower, depending on your preferences. Both common names for the same plant.

The next two photos are really blurry, but I’m including them for the sake of completeness.  My apologies.

Salmonberry blossom.
Salmonberry blossom.
Wild currant blossoms.
Wild currant blossoms.
Elderberry blossoms.
Elderberry blossoms.
Cranesbill.
Cranesbill.

And, no, this isn’t a wildflower, but I’m including it, anyway.

And this is the view on a clear day from the ballfields at the north end of the Chapman trail.
This is the view on a clear day from the ballfields at the north end of the Chapman trail.

Mirrored from M.M. Justus -- adventures in the supernatural Old West.

mmegaera: (Much Ado in Montana)
Steptoe Butte from the approach road.
Steptoe Butte from the approach road.

In which I discover I’m not excited about hundred-plus foot dropoffs on single-lane roads with no guardrails, but find the view worth it, anyway.

One of the reasons I decided to visit the Palouse, especially in spring, was because I had hopes of wildflowers. If you read my blog, especially in the summertime, you’ll note that I have a Thing for wildflowers and also for identifying them.

An interesting geological feature of the Palouse is the occasional butte sticking up out of the deep, rolling loess landscape. Two of these buttes are enclosed in parks, and the wildflower book I carried with me said that they were good places to go see wildflowers in the spring because they’re just about the only part of the landscape that isn’t farmed intensely for wheat and lentils.

Kamiak Butte County Park is a few miles north of Pullman, and it was my first stop of the morning. The road into the park approaches the butte from the north, and I was surprised to discover how thickly wooded it was with pines. Not another soul was there at nine in the morning on a weekday, which made me a bit uncomfortable as a woman hiking alone, but I started out on the trail, anyway, and was immediately rewarded by fawn lilies and thimbleberry blossoms scattered thickly among the pine needles.

Fawn or glacier lilies.
Fawn or glacier lilies.
Thimbleberry blossoms.
Thimbleberry blossoms.

The trail went pretty much straight up the side of the butte, and I am sort of ashamed to say that I never made it out of the forest to the top before I got pretty winded. I have no trouble hiking the three miles at 6300 feet on the loop back around behind Sunrise on Mt. Rainier every summer, but this trail was just a bit much, for some reason, not just physically. It was also disconcerting to be the only person on the trail except for a runner who nearly mowed me down as I was coming back down the hill.

So on north I went to Steptoe Butte State Park, which, according to Wikipedia, is a protrusion of rock almost 25 times older than the land surrounding it. It’s such an archetype that this sort of geological formation is officially called a steptoe wherever it’s found (the word steptoe itself comes from the name of an army officer in the Indian Wars — Kamiak Butte was named after a local Indian chief, which seems only fair).

Steptoe Butte was similarly deserted, which was a good thing. There’s a road to the top, winding three times around the butte to get there. It’s barely wide enough for a compact car, there is no guard rail until you reach the top but a good many potholes, and the butte goes straight up on one side and drops to the base over 3600 feet below from the top on the other. I did not meet another car either going up or coming down, for which I am extremely grateful, because I’m not sure what I would have done if I had. But the views from the top were spectacular.

From the top of Steptoe Butte.  One of those "you can see the curvature of the earth from here" views.
From the top of Steptoe Butte. One of those “you can see the curvature of the earth from here” views.
Starting back down.
Starting back down.
One lane, no guardrails, 3000 feet straight down on the left.
One lane, no guardrails, 3000 feet straight down on the left.

I was very pleased with the wildflowers I saw, too.

Gray's biscuit root.
Gray’s biscuit root.
Arrowleaf balsamroot.
Arrowleaf balsamroot and yarrow.
Wild cherry blossoms, I think.  The bark looks like cherry, anyway.
Wild cherry blossoms, I think. The bark looks like cherry, anyway.

And a critter.

Chipmunk at the base of Steptoe Butte.
Chipmunk at the base of Steptoe Butte.

By the time I white-knuckled my way back down to the bottom, it was getting on towards noon, so reluctantly I started making my way west again.  I saw a huge piece of farm machinery plowing along the side of one of those voluptuous curves, which made me wonder if the operator had a hard time keeping it from tipping over.

Plowing the Palouse.
Plowing the Palouse.

While I was passing through the town of Colfax, I saw a sign for a quilt shop, and of course I could not resist. The shop, tucked into a turn-of-the-last-century building on the main drag, had some lovely fabric, and I came out with 3/4 of a yard of souvenir.

Then I topped off my gas tank and headed out on U.S. 26, which eventually took me all the way back to I-90 at Vantage and home, crossing the rest of the Palouse, the almost-manmade-looking dividing line between it and the channeled scablands, and the orchard country, before I headed over the mountains again.

It was a lovely two days, and exactly what I needed, even after a winter that wasn’t really a winter this year.

Mirrored from M.M. Justus -- adventures in the supernatural Old West.

mmegaera: (Much Ado in Montana)
Each one of those wind turbines is taller than the Statue of Liberty.
Each one of those wind turbines is taller than the Statue of Liberty.

Serendipity and itchy feet. Metaphorical itchy feet, I hasten to add. Anyway, it’s spring and I was feeling the need to hit the road,
preferably to a place I’d never been before. This isn’t easy when I can only be gone overnight, after almost twenty-two years in the same county.

But I’d never been to the Palouse before, somehow. Granted,
because it’s down in the far southeastern corner of Washington state (slopping over a bit into Idaho), the Palouse (which is either where the horse breed Appaloosa gets its name or vice versa) is about as far from home as I can get without leaving the state, but still, it’s only about 250 miles one way. Not that bad.

So I packed up for an overnight, loaded the cats’ food and water dishes, and headed out.

I left I-90 where it crosses the Columbia River at the little town of Vantage, and followed the river downstream to where if you look across it, you can see the Hanford Nuclear Reservation, which was part of the Manhattan Project during WWII, where they developed the bombs our government dropped on Japan, and which is now the Superfund site to end all Superfund sites (I can only wish it would be the end of Superfund sites). From the highway, of course, you can’t see anything but barren hills, but there is a sign that tells about it.

The Hanford Nuclear Reservation sign.
The Hanford Nuclear Reservation sign.

And so on eastward, past orchards and through the little town of Othello and the hamlet of Washtucna.

Orchard along the river south of Othello.
Apple orchard in bloom along the river south of Othello.

I turned south again at Washtucna through the terrain known as the channeled scablands, which resulted from huge lava flows which were then carved when great glacial Lake Missoula flooded most of eastern Washington, leaving behind a great black jagged landscape looking about as desolate as a place can get.

But it’s a beautiful desolate, and one of the most beautiful places in it is Palouse Falls, which is also Washington state’s official state
waterfall.

190-foot Palouse Falls, Washington's state waterfall.
190-foot Palouse Falls, Washington’s state waterfall.
Looking downstream from Palouse Falls at the channeled scablands.
Looking downstream from Palouse Falls at the channeled scablands.
Marmot near Palouse Falls.
Marmot near Palouse Falls.
I thought this was camas, but it turns out to be brodiaea.
I thought this was camas, but it turns out to be brodiaea.

But no, I wasn’t in the Palouse yet. After I hiked around the falls a bit, and photographed a few wildflowers and a critter or two, I
headed on east and north, and the land changed abruptly from sharp and jagged and rocky to smooth and covered with a
patchwork of kelly green new sprouting wheat and fallow tan.

The undulating landscape of the Palouse.
The undulating landscape of the Palouse.

The Palouse proper looks like the landscape version of a Renoir nude. Not a sharp edge in sight. The soil here, wind-blown loess up to a thousand feet deep in places, flows almost like water. The roads curve and wrap themselves around and through the undulating ups and downs topped with ranks of wind turbines. Farmhouses
surrounded with windbreak trees nestle in the hollows. The sky is unutterably wide, especially to someone who’s used to spending most of her time surrounded by huge evergreens and snowcapped mountains.

It’s actually quite glorious.

The biggest town in the Palouse is the college town of Pullman.
Everything there is Washington State University Cougar red and
silver. People kept telling me I needed to go to a place called
Ferdinand’s to get ice cream, but I couldn’t find it. I did, however, find a place to spend the night, the better to get ready for more
exploration the next day.

If you enjoy my travel blog posts, you might enjoy my travel memoir, Cross-Country.

Mirrored from M.M. Justus -- adventures in the supernatural Old West.

mmegaera: (Much Ado in Montana)

In which I am asked what I think are some rather interesting questions:  http://www.niwawriters.net/m-m-justus.html

This is a great organization, by the way.  If you’re going to be at WorldCon in Spokane in August, stop by the NIWA table in the dealers’ room and say hello.

Mirrored from M.M. Justus -- adventures in the supernatural Old West.

sigh

Apr. 1st, 2015 12:53 pm
mmegaera: (Default)
Wow, I hate inadvertently swallowing my foot whole online. Especially when it's accidentally hurtful.

I didn't do it on purpose, honest.
mmegaera: (Default)
I hope this makes some young Seattle Seahawks fan happier. This will be going to a group that gives quilts to kids going through a hard time.



And here's a closeup of the border quilting:



That's donation quilt #3 for this year. I just started quilting #4, and, as it turns out, am piecing #s 5, 6, and 7 sort of simultaneously by accident. I made too many blocks, so I'm arranging the blocks in two different ways to make two quilts instead of one, and #7 is actually going to be made of pieces I have to cut away to make the blocks for the first two quilts. No wasted fabric [g]. The goal is twelve quilts for the year.
mmegaera: (Sojourn)

RH 300 cover

Peggy Henderson, a fellow writer of Yellowstone, tagged me to talk about seven things in my writing life. That’s going to take some thinking.

1.  I’ve been writing a good chunk of my life. I started keeping my first journal on a trip to Alaska when I was fourteen, and I wrote my first fiction — an extremely bad case of Mary Sued fanfic of the shortlived 70s TV series Apple’s Way — not long after that. I kept voluminous journals (no longer in my possession, alas) in high school and college, wrote a lot of really bad poetry during the same time frame, and was only stopped dead in my tracks by the creative writing teacher from hell when I was twenty-one. I didn’t start writing again until my thirties, but have been ever since.

2.  It took me twelve years, off and on, from the time I first came up with the idea for Repeating History, until I actually had a published book in my hands. I wrote at least three other books (none of which have seen, or are likely to see, the light of day) during that time, too, though. And wasted a lot of time receiving rejection letters from tradpub and agents that said, in essence, “I really like this, but I can’t sell it,” during that time, too, before self-pubbing became a viable option.

3.  I’ve built two iterations of my own website, the first one hand-coded using Notepad and The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Creating a Website (I still own my dogeared copy), and the second one using self-hosted WordPress, which was both orders of magnitude easier and much more professional-looking. I’m rather proud of that, and of the fact that I do all my own graphics work, too. That was a steep learning curve for me.

4.  I vastly prefer writing about fictional versions of real places, and preferably real places I have visited, or, in one case, lived in briefly. I also vastly prefer to write about ordinary people dumped into supernatural circumstances than to write about people who are supernatural themselves. I firmly believe there’s magic in the world, even if the only place we can write about it is in fiction.

5.  I use the “event horizon” method of plotting, as once described by Lois McMaster Bujold. While I do usually have a last line or scene that I’m aiming for, what I do is plot until I hit the event horizon (the point where I can’t figure out what happens next), then write up to that point, then plot to the next event horizon, and so forth and so on, till I get to the end.

6.  NOT a fan of marketing my books. I worked in advertising in a past life, and so have an extreme allergy to being marketed to, which means I don’t want to inflict that on anyone else. This makes life difficult. Also, unlike writing books, marketing them does not have a clear beginning, middle, and end. That’s very frustrating.

7.  Most of my book ideas come from odd things I find, or from historical events, or from natural disasters, of all things.

I hope you enjoyed this little venture into sharing my writing life with you.  If you have any questions, please be sure to ask!

Mirrored from M.M. Justus -- adventures in the supernatural Old West.

mmegaera: (Default)
I know there are former Bujold listees on my FL, who might not have heard the good news, so here you go. Lois just posted the following to the Bujold list.

"Just posted this to my blog --

I am pleased to report that a new Cordelia Vorkosigan novel has been
sold to Baen Books for publication, tentatively, in February of 2016.

The title is _Gentleman Jole and the Red Queen_.

It is not a war story. It is about grownups.

And that is probably all I ought to say right now in a venue read by the
spoiler-sensitive. It is, after all, a long haul till next February.

2016 will also mark the 30th anniversary of my first publication by
Baen, which ought to be good for a little PR fun.

Ta, L."
mmegaera: (Sojourn)

Sojourn final e- cover 300

I do love it when a reviewer understands — and likes — what I was doing with the story.

Here’s the link.

Mirrored from M.M. Justus -- adventures in the supernatural Old West.

mmegaera: (Default)
This pattern is called Tropic of Cancer, and the color way is Humans, based off of a photo of a bunch people's arms, lined up together, from very, very dark gray brown, to about as light as I am (I think of my skin tone as an extremely pale salmon color). I don't have the photo anymore. In spite of what the photo looks like, the fabric is solid white [wry g].


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